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Pants drafting

Posted by caliginous on 2005.04.10 at 13:22
I can't get the scanner to work, so I re-drew the diagram and re-typed the directions to one of my pants drafting instructions (other methods are on loan so I can't compare them, they are all pretty similar). I only have photobucket as a host. Feel free to grab and re-host this image, click the link if hotlinking goes over my small bandwith allotment.

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Pants Draft
Waist (narrowest point) _____________
Hip (widest point) ___________
Waist to hip (derriere)
Depth of crotch (run soft tape from front to back, at waistline between legs through crotch, sit down)__________________(measure will be halved for drafting)
Out seam/length________________
Waist to knee__________________
Waist to hipbones (mark as X’s for future reference in hip huggers etc)_____________

1. Cut paper, the length of slacks plus 4 inches. The left side will be back, the right front
2. Waistline: draw line across top of page, down 2” from top of paper
3. Side Seam: Find midpoint of line (a) drop perpendicular through center from [AX] at hemline
4. Derriere: Locate derriere on body, draw line parallel to waistline (7-8” down) from waistline
5. Center Front: Establish on Front Hipline, right from center AX 1/4 total hip measurement + 1/4” Drop perpendicular/vertical line to bottom of paper at hem, and up to top at waistline
6. Center Back: Establish Back hipline, (left side) 1/4 total hipline minus 1/2” drop perpendicular/vertical line to bottom of paper at hem, and to top at waistline
7. Front slim waistline: for slim bodies only, bring front waistline in 1/4” at top
8. Raised back waistline: Bring back waistline in 1/2” and raise 1/2 inch (more if hippy)
9. Side Seam Curve: Raise 1/2”, and curve in 1/2(+or-)” to reduce waistline
10. Curve Waistline, from front, to 1/2” higher at sides, and back. For elastic or cord waist, do not curve, but add extra inch at top for hem which becomes elastic or cord casing
11. Curve side seams in from new raised waistline to derriere (for thicker waistlines, curve less)

12. Crotch: Measure down side seam from new waistline, depth of crotch + 1/2” ease draw horizontal line
13. Front Crotch Extension: Measure out from CF 1/4 pattern measurement, extend Front crotch line
14. Front Curve: Draw Diagonal 1 1/4” at intersection, bisect triangle, and curve front crotch extension
15. Back Crotch: Lower back crotch 1” below front crotch line draw parallel to front
16. Back Crotch Extension: Extend back crotch 1/2 Back pattern measurement (more if heavy) [J]
17. Extend back Derriere 3/4” beyond Center Back. Connect with diagonal to back waist, extending to back crotch extension. Persons with heavier thighs may need additional extension
18. Back Crotch curve is a tight diagonal, only about 1/4” at intersection and extension

19. Front Inseam: Drop perpendicular vertical line from midpoint of front extension to hemline
20. back Inseam: Drop perpendicular vertical line from midpoint of back crotch extension to hemline
21. knees: Locate knee, draw and label horizontal line at knee level. This is an important construction mark
22. Front inseam curve: draw curved line from extension to knee. Mark knee on fabric when cutting
23. Back inseam curve: draw curved line from extension to nee. Stretch this bias to match front knees when stitching pants (remember back crotch is lower, so inseam is shorter than front

24. Grain line: Mark vertical grain line in center of leg, to waist at front, to crotch at back. Front dart can be on center front grain line

25. Darts: determine the number and size of darts by subtracting 1/2 body waist measurement front he 1/2 body pattern. The differential will be used for darts to fit waist (f=1/4W+1/4” b=1/4W-1/4”)
26. First dart: establish on-crease grain line. Draw perpendicular at centre 1” in length for each 1/4” in depth. Taper dart from waist on each side of dart center line
27. Second dart, both front and back, about 1-3 inches from first. These are guidelines online. Darts direct fullness to body curve; front to hip bone or tummy, as needed, can be pleats. Back darts are longer, and usually wider, stopping above derriere

28. Shaping legs: this draft is straight from the hipline, making full legged pant.
Straight: tailored: measure in 1” at cuff on out seam, connect: narrow inseam equally. Connect slimmed inseam to pant inseam at knee
Tapered: slim: keep grain line in center of leg, tapering equally on in and out seams.
Bell Bottoms: Ad 2/3 of fullness on out seam, only 13 on inseam for full pants

29. Waistband: draft pattern waistline plus 1” ease, plus 2” for 1/2” seam allowance and 1” overlap. Band should be about 1” wide plus 1/2 or 5/8 seam allowance

30. Seam allowances. Designer patterns are cut without seam allowances. Remember to mark all stitching lines and add appropriate seam allowances (1” on out seams) when you cut fabric

31. Pin Fit: Pin up garment and try on wrong side out for fitting Match knees and stretch back inseam
32. Stitch: 1-darts, maintaining slip tips press to center 2-inseam; 3-crotch seam (fit) 4-outseam, with pocket 5-zipper; 6-waistband; 7-hem

NOTES (mine)
The drawing is NOT TO SCALE. I re-drew it in Photoshop, the curves should be smooth, the measurements precise.
The dashed line is the pocket bag, not required.
I have included all the lines drawn on my original, which includes extras such as tapered legs and the pocket line for front side pockets, which are NOT on the seam. To use this you must cut one of the bag pieces of fashion fabric, as it will show, the other half can be lining.
Back Crotch: Draw a line 1/4” long from back crotch to line GK, then slightly curve this to get the correct curvature
Slopers are drafted from the natural waist, which I realize not many of us wear clothing there. It is done however so that you are dealing with one set of measurements at a time, and so that all the sloper pieces can connect to each other (bodice sloper stops at the waist, it can then connect to pants for a pant-suit or skirt for a dress). Please draft accorddingly, and then you can re-draw your lines to have pants sit where comfortable, and simply re-draft your waistband.


grooveslut at 2005-04-10 18:38 (UTC) (Link)
wow I can't believe you typed all this out, thank you so much! And you did a great job on the drawing too.

I'm really excited to get started now. The textbook that I have is very detailed on how to do patterns with the flat pattern method but it assumes you already have sloper making knowledge so I was really lost trying to figure out what to do.

Thanks again!!!
grooveslut at 2005-04-10 19:09 (UTC) (Link)
oh one more question (because I'm still learning about this): I know that a sloper is what you use to create patterns using the flat pattern method but what I am wondering is if you were to create a garment using a custom sloper pattern with no changes (whether that is bodice, dress, pants, etc), would it be skin tight?
caliginous at 2005-04-10 20:12 (UTC) (Link)
It's not skin tight, but very fitted, with usually just an inch or so of ease, which when spread around you entire body translates to not very much. Before you finalize your pattern, make sure you make it in a plain woven fabric, muslin is the usual but I've used old sheets before (something I can draw on if I need to make ajustments). When you make your mock-up, be sure you don't sew it all the way closed, make it as though you would be putting in a zipper, and use bigger seam allowances than usual so you have something to play with if you need to let it out a touch.

Out of curiosity, what book are you using?
grooveslut at 2005-04-10 20:55 (UTC) (Link)
Pattern Making by the Flat-Pattern Method by Norma R. Hollen and Carolyn J. Kundel (8th ed)

The book is VERY detailed on making patterns, moving darts, changing necklines and has standard sized slopers in a scaled down version but does not go into details on how to develop your own. (and I am in no way a standard size because I am very thin with few curves)

Thanks for explaining the fit of a sloper, that makes it easier to understand.

Thanks again for all your help!
caliginous at 2005-04-10 23:02 (UTC) (Link)
That's the book I used in my three programs, it is probably the best out there for flat pattern. The 1/4 scale pieces (transfer them to tagboard) are great to practice with, so you can check your measurements and whatnot before you get to full scale. Good luck with it.
grooveslut at 2005-04-11 00:21 (UTC) (Link)
I bought it several years ago when I was considering moving to Vancouver to take fashion design and I wanted to have a stronger portfolio of pieces to present since my illustration is the pits. Looking at amazon.com now I'm surprised I own a book that cost so much! lol It's on par with my hefty engineering texts in price and I expect it to be just as knowledgeable. From what I've seen scanning through it, it is really thorough. I was just stuck because I'm just a newbie to all this and I could not figure out how to customize the standard sloper to fit me. Now that I see your instructions there is no way I would have gotten right how my measurements corresponded to changes on my own.

In your classes did you guys jump around the book or did you go straight through it? I know in my classes sometimes the profs have us jump around because though they like the texts and the way they are written, they do not think the texts are in the right order.
caliginous at 2005-04-11 12:24 (UTC) (Link)
In the program I acutually purchased the book for we went through the book as it corresponded to the pieces we wer making in class,which I don't think was quite the order of the book. We started drafting skirts, then pants, then bodices, then did sleves and collars. We did some of teh exercises in the books as learning tools, and a few assignments were to replicate in 1/4 scale one or two of the examples/problems at the end of the chapters, but my instreuctor had been teaching the class for 30 years and was mostly using hands on instruction. Once you get the basic concepts of the slash and spread and pivot methods, you really don't need the book for much, I haven't opened mine since the class because it all makes sense when you have just a little practice.

And tagboard is just a stiff paper, like file folders are made of. It makes life a lot easier when patterning to have your master on tag because you can abuse it and it'll still hold up. It also makes it much easier to do the pivot method because the whole pattern turns easily, without any of your darts changing dimension on you.
grooveslut at 2005-04-11 23:16 (UTC) (Link)
okay thanks for the info on the board, that makes great sense because once you make a pattern (or at the very least a sloper) you'll want to use it over and over again.

I'm going to work my way through the information portion of the book and then the chapters on the specific types of garments I will go over as I try to make things.

Thank you again for your help!! :o)
grooveslut at 2005-04-11 00:29 (UTC) (Link)
p.s. what is tagboard?
niflheim_garden at 2006-10-19 19:12 (UTC) (Link)
woooooow, this looks really interesting. i'm sorry but i'm new to this business......... this is pair of pants that sits at the natural waistline, correct? (not a big deal i guess can be modified without too much trouble?)
caliginous at 2006-10-19 19:19 (UTC) (Link)
yes. All slopers are designed to be drafted to natural measurements, that way they are easy to combine-for instance, a properly drafted bodice pattern should line up exactly with a properly drafted skirt or pants pattern at the waist. Usually there's a little bit of nudging darts around, but not much. That way you can make dress or pantsuit patterns very easily, without having to ajust each time.
(Anonymous) at 2010-10-10 11:21 (UTC) (Link)
if im putting a fly in do i need to extend one half of the CF, say a 1/4"?
caliginous at 2010-10-10 22:27 (UTC) (Link)
The fly is more than that as an extension. http://www.rebelshaven.com/images/costumes/femmefett/patternshapes.jpg has an OK drawing of what you should do with it. Either make a separate piece for the fly, or you extend the pattern the depth of the fly, so that it folds under the proper width, and the other piece has the back facing bit. http://www.independentliving.org/fashionfreaks/pants/siwp4.html does an OK job of showing what I'm talking about, they use an add-on fly, but the process is similar to drafted in one.
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